Archive for the ‘Tutorials’ Category

Olympic Knitting

Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009

The 2010 Winter Olympics are coming to Vancouver, and I’m stoked!

1 - I have auditioned for the Opening Ceremonies as a hoop dancer, and blogged about it over on my hoop site.

2 - Lauren, aka Lolly, and her husband will be staying with us! I read her post on Ravelry asking about Vancouver accommodations (since all of the hotels have been completely booked by the organizers already), so I did a bit of research to find out what the city bylaws said regarding part-time B&B status.. and it turns out that they’ve recently been amended to allow people like us to rent out one room to a maximum of two people during the Olympics. Woot! There are more knitters in the 2010 Olympics group on Ravelry looking for places to stay, so if you’re in the greater Vancouver area and have a suitable space, go get connected!

3 - Dale of Norway has apparently gotten the go-ahead to do an official sweater design for the 2010 event. I’m not sure if I’m likely to knit their design, but it will definitely be inspiration for the stranded colourwork sweater I AM planning to get done for this winter!

In non-Olympic knitting land, I’m planning to take my microphone to work with me today, so I can finish recording Episode 9 of Christa Knits inbetween classes.

I have also completed my Laminaria-inspired top, and am in the final stages of finishing a ponchette for summer, knit in the indigo-dyed slubby silk I brought back from Japan last summer. Pics of that to come, but here’s the Laminiaria top:

Laminaria-inspired top in SeaSilk


Thanks to Francesca of Three Bags Full for taking the photo. I was modelling a shawl knit in Indigo Moon’s yummy laceweight silk, and I’ve never felt so glamourous!

Click on the Laminaria tag below to see all of my posts on this project!

Colourflow Wrap & Tutorial

Tuesday, March 24th, 2009

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Several months ago, a shipment of Koigu arrived at Three Bags Full. Luckily I was working that day, so I got to spend most of my five-hour shift unpacking the boxes and rearranging the new colours up on our Wall of Glory (which is what I call the Koigu section in my head)!

We have a Charlotte’s Web shawl in the shop, so I began playing with combinations of colour, in groups of five skeins each. I started adding extra skeins (since that shawl is a bit undersized for me), and wound up with a group of nine that I really loved. Turning to Francesca, I asked if I could design something using the nine, in a beginner-friendly pattern. She gave me the go-ahead, and off I went! About a week later, the wrap was complete and blocked, and it was AMAZING!

Did I mention that the project is all-knit, all-the-time? Yes, NO PURLING!

The double-stranded Koigu blocks out to have a lovely drape, but still springy and stretchy and cozy and full of OOOOHness! (technical term there, “oooohness”) Since the sample wrap has been living in the shop, many of our customers have put together their own colour choices, and getting to see each new wrap has been a lot of fun!

Some hints for choosing nine colours: pick a skein you love, pick another one that you think will look good next to your skin, and pick a third that will be a darker anchor at the hem of the shawl. Now, fill in the gaps: find colours that bridge the gap from one to the next, sharing a few colours in common with the skeins on each side. Don’t be afraid if one colour seems to jump out a bit - this adds a visual sparkle to your wrap!

This is a free download, available through Ravelry (though you don’t need to be a member). If you ARE a Ravelry member, it would be great to see your completed project photos! If you aren’t on Ravelry, what’s keeping you?!

Click here for Free Download of ColourFlow Wrap pattern.

Go here to see the Colourflow Wrap project page on Ravelry. Hopefully others will post their projects quickly so we can all ooh and aah over the glorious colours!

Many thanks to Megan McPeak for allowing me to take photos during the final stage of her project!

Now, the tutorial! Please note that this does not include enough information to create the wrap, you will need to download the PDF and read through the pattern to get started. This WILL help you out when it comes to the final stages of cutting and fringing. Enjoy!

After you unravel the final 10 stitches, the 11th loop should be at the top of the column of twisted stitches.

After you unravel the final 10 stitches, the 11th loop should be at the top of the column of twisted stitches.

The tail end of yarn has been threaded through the last live stitch, so all cast-off stitches are now secured and will not unravel.  Live stitches on the left will be unravelled after cutting, to become the fringe!

The tail end of yarn has been threaded through the last live stitch, so all cast-off stitches are now secured and will not unravel. Live stitches on the left will be unravelled after cutting, to become the fringe!

The white arrows indicate the columns of wrapped stitches.  The cut line is 10 stitches away from each of these columns.

The white arrows indicate the columns of wrapped stitches. The cut line is 10 stitches away from each of these columns.

The pink line shows the column of knit stitches that you can follow as you cut.  Untie any knots as you come to them, and trim these after the fringe has been knotted.

The pink line shows the column of knit stitches that you can follow as you cut. Untie any knots as you come to them, and trim these after the fringe has been knotted.

Starting at the end with live stitches, pull out one row of stitches at a time until you have reached the cast-on edge (which gets pulled out, too!)

Starting at the end with live stitches, pull out one row of stitches at a time until you have reached the cast-on edge (which gets pulled out, too!)

Whee!  Isn't it nice to have this happen on purpose, instead of by accident?

Whee! Isn't it nice to have this happen on purpose, instead of by accident?

Make the first layer of knots close to the knitted fabric, using 8 strands for each knot.  Fudge the number of strands as you get close to the end if needed (your row count may differ from mine).  You can see how the first bundle in the second row of knots is thicker than the rest - this will be true of the first and last bundle, as they will have all the strands of the edge bundle plus half of its neighbour.  You can choose to knot all of the first row before beginning the second row, it won't affect the final outcome.

Make the first layer of knots close to the knitted fabric, using 8 strands for each knot. Fudge the number of strands as you get close to the end if needed (your row count may differ from mine). You can see how the first bundle in the second row of knots is thicker than the rest - this will be true of the first and last bundle, as they will have all the strands of the edge bundle plus half of its neighbour. You can choose to knot all of the first row before beginning the second row, it won't affect the final outcome.

PS - wondering about the spelling? You say Colorflow, I say Colourflow - ’cause I’m Canadian, eh?

Veronique: casting on seamless centre-out tutorial

Saturday, February 21st, 2009

French Girl Knits, by Kristeen Griffin-Grimes, is a glorious book. The buzz was already high, (Kim Werker was the one who told me how she snatched it up for all the beautiful projects… five minutes after saying goodbye, I was at the cash register at Urban Yarns buying my copy) and it is all well-deserved.

Veronique caught my eye for its delicate design done in the simplest of knitting. The photos confused me a bit, as I saw seams on the sleeves that weren’t accounted for in the pattern, (visit the Veronique KAL on Ravelry to read Kristeen’s explanation) and it took me a few minutes to understand the construction diagrams, but I knew that I wanted to make it.

Off to check my stash! After a trip to Japan last summer, I had cones of lightweight yarns from Avril (aka Habu) that I had thought to hold together for some future, non-laceweight project. Would any of them work for this, instead? Lightweight, teeny boucle mohair (I think) - floats like KidSilk Haze, check! A quick gauge swatch on 5mms, and I knew I was good.

I started thinking about the construction, and pondering a good selvedge for seaming purposes, and THEN I started trying to figure out if it could be made in the round. I could picture the “T” diagram with horizontal stripes on it, and then picture those stripes as they would meet in the seams, and realized it could be done. All of this was BEFORE I joined the Veronique KAL… when I had gotten through my cast-on and had it working, I looked around to see if I could share the technique, only to discover that everyone in the KAL was already talking about it, but they were working it from the outside in with plans to graft across the centre back and gathers at the end!

These photos aren’t my project, in case you’re wondering about the yarn. This is Francesca’s, the co-owner of Three Bags Full, worked in Kidsilk Haze.

Comments are welcome - Please let me know if you have any questions about this!

Provisional cast-on over cable of spare needle, using 1/3 of original cast-on stitches as pattern calls for.

Provisional cast-on over cable of spare needle, using 1/3 of original cast-on stitches as pattern calls for.


Provisional cast-on over waste yarn, using all of stitches in pattern's first provisional cast on instruction.

Provisional cast-on over waste yarn, using all of stitches in pattern's first provisional cast on instruction.


Slide spare cable through stitches so needle tip is pulled into stitches at the same end as Step 2's stitches.

Slide spare cable through stitches so needle tip is pulled into stitches at the same end as Step 2's stitches.


Pull working needle around so it is in position to knit stitches off spare needle.

Pull working needle around so it is in position to knit stitches off spare needle.


Stretch armhole stitches around curve of working needle before beginning increases across stitches from spare needle.

Stretch armhole stitches around curve of working needle before beginning increases across stitches from spare needle.


Increases (K1, Yo, KI all into every stitch) across all stitches from spare needle complete.  All stitches on working needle only.

Increases (K1, Yo, KI all into every stitch) across all stitches from spare needle complete. All stitches on working needle only.


Second armhole:  provisional cast-on over waste yarn again, same number of stitches as Step 2.  Yarn at bottom left of photo is NOT working yarn, this is tail from original cast on.

Second armhole: provisional cast-on over waste yarn again, same number of stitches as Step 2. Yarn at bottom left of photo is NOT working yarn, this is tail from original cast on.


Curve working needle around to point at its other end, to begin working in the round.  Slip knot from original cast-on now removed.

Curve working needle around to point at its other end, to begin working in the round. Slip knot from original cast-on now removed.


Hard to get stitches stretched around enough?  You can use the Magic Loop method of pulling extra cable out between stitches to get around the corners eaiser.  This won't be required once you have knit a few inches.

Hard to get stitches stretched around enough? You can use the Magic Loop method of pulling extra cable out between stitches to get around the corners eaiser. This won't be required once you have knit a few inches.


For those of you who like diagrams!

For those of you who like diagrams!


Francesca's Veronique - after 1 day!

Francesca's Veronique - after 1 day!